As Africa Fashion Week New York enters its final day, Ventures Africa engages one of the event’s top stars Nigerian london-based designer Hazel Eki Aggrey-Orleans to shed light on the status of the Fashion industry in Africa.

The owner of London-based fashion-label Eki Orleans, Hazel was born in Germany, raised in Nigeria and educated in London, she describes her design aesthetic as being strongly influenced by this diverse mix of cultures. Attributing her inspiration to her African roots, Eki says she developed a love for the vivid and earthly colours of Africa growing up in the buzzing, chaotic and culturally diverse city of Lagos.

While still pursuing a career in finance, Eki says she decided to follow her vocation and natural aptitude for textile and fashion design. Combining both artistic skills she launched her first fashion collection with her own fabric designs in 2009.

Five years in the business of fashion and Eki is regarded as a veteran among the nascent breed of African fashion designers gaining international recognition.

In this interview with Ventures Africa the talented designer discusses the status, prospects and challenges of Africa’s fashion industry.

Ventures africa (VA): Do we have a ‘Fashion Industry’ in Africa?

Eki: There is a growing interest in African fashion and African designers and alongside that, an increased improvement in the designs that are coming out of the African continent. Countries like Nigeria and South Africa are the frontrunners in terms of putting together good quality fashion shows with a high calibre of designers and have to a certain extent been able to create their own fashion industry that works.

With the growing economy and its potential, some countries have taken to becoming producers and consumers of luxury goods. Up until now, countries like China and India have been the main producers of luxury goods but more recently, high end brands have been looking to produce their goods in Africa. With the appetite for luxury goods, we have also seen an increase in international retailers opening stores, making it more accessible to buy on the grounds.

So to answer your question, yes, we have a growing potential for a fashion industry in Africa, as there is a lot of inspiration that derives from the continent and a growing desire to be fashionable.

VA: How has SME driven the growth of Africa’s fashion industry?

Eki: It is true to say that there isn’t a lack of entrepreneurs in most African countries. SME businesses, such as fashion designers have helped grow the fashion industry through social media. Often these fashion houses consist of 1-2 people, and with the lack of cashflow, they have looked to social media to promote their brands. This has helped create an immense awareness of what is coming out of Africa.

VA: How can investments boost the growth of the industry?

Eki: Since the fashion industry is still a relatively new industry within Africa, there is still a lack of understanding and support. There is a lot of talent but not everyone is lucky enough to get the encouragement to study fashion at a fashion school partly because there aren’t many facilities for interested students to exercise out their talent. Investment into creating more fashion schools as well as funding to help back fashion students will definitely boost the growth of the industry.

VA: How can favourable government policies help foster growth?

Eki: Implementing government funding for fashion students to start their collections, travel to fashion shows and exhibit their collections is one of the ways in which new policies could help accelerate the growth.

VA: How has Africa’s growing middle class impacted the market?  

Eki: With the growing middle class, people are less accepting of mediocre goods. These people are educated and often well travelled and demand quality. This has helped push up the standards with the fashion industry.

VA: How receptive has the world been to African designs marketed abroad?

Eki: In terms of hype and press it has been great. In terms of international buyers stocking the African designs, this has been less receptive.

VA: Is fashion really profitable in Africa?

Eki: Yes, in those countries where the economy is stronger, it is definitely profitable.

VA: What is the role of young people, millennial particularly, in revolutionizing Africa’s fashion industry?  

Eki: Most millennials tend to be highly educated and technologically savvy. They use social media and text to communicate and stay connected. Through the help of social mediums like Instagram and Facebook, these groups of young people who tend to have hundreds of followers are able to instantly communicate the latest fashion trends worldwide drawing attention to the fashion industry in Africa.

VA: How has participation in international fashion shows, helped African brands grow?

Eki: Giving African brands an international platform has helped them grow. It has allowed them to get into mainstream press, dress celebrities and also get involved in collaborations with well known and established international brands. Where we still face challenges, is getting our designs stocked in international boutiques season after season.

VA: Why should anyone invest in Africa’s fashion industry?

Eki: With a growing economy in many large countries within Africa, there has been a move away from basic commodities to a modern lifestyle. With more disposable income and an expectancy of quality, we have seen a demand for luxury goods. In many African cities, fashion conscious people are now more than happy to purchase their clothing at home, rather than fly abroad to do their shopping.

It’s an exciting time for investors to invest in African fashion, as there is still so much room for growth.

VA: How can Africa help itself?

Eki: By investing in its own fashion industry. With this I mean creating its own fabrics, establishing clothing manufacturing units and creating a retail market through department stores to stock its own local designers.

Once Africa perfects its game within the fashion industry, it does not need to solely rely on the international market for growth.

VA: Overall, what are the challenges faced by Africa’s fashion industry?

Eki: As the fashion industry is still relatively new, the challenges it faces are; providing enough funding and support to allow those interested in fashion to excel. Currently, being self-taught is still pretty much the norm amongst African designers, as it was never an optional career path. However, with the growing numbers of African designers now making a name for themselves, this is changing.

VA: How can we address these challenges?

Eki: Fashion needs to be put on the curriculum. It also needs a fashion council to support aspiring students to excel in their craft

VA: What does the future hold for the industry?

Eki: I believe the future for the African fashion industry is bright. There just needs to be more investment into buying locally and developing the industry to a standard where it can stand on its own two feet, as there is a growing appetite for African inspired designs and it is not about to disappear.