‘Naturalistas’ are everywhere you look these days. And because of the nature of Black hair, so are natural hair care products. With the key word being “natural.” While ‘going natural’ is not necessarily a new practice, the number of people deciding to own their Black hair texture appears to be on the rise. This is all thanks to a growing sense of identity and pride amongst Black communities which is being embraced globally and, of course, ‘natural hair preachers and converters.’
The advent of the re-emerging ‘fro has spiked up tremendously, to the point that anyone who is caught sporting one is labelled by some as jumping on a trendy bandwagon. As far as they’re concerned, going natural is a fad which will go the way of other fads before it, sooner or later. While it remains true that everyone has their personal reasons, and taking part in a trend might be one of them, the steadfastness of the millions of naturalistas becoming more noticeable over the last decade, coupled with an advancing re-orientation of Black people on their Blackness certainly proves otherwise.
These loyal naturalistas are dedicated to educating their ‘sisters’ about what ‘good hair’ really means, and why they should love theirs the way it is. They also encourage their siblings, parents, children, relatives and friends to do the same. Therefore, they take it upon themselves to not just encourage their converts to desist from using texture-altering chemicals, but also emphasise that Black hair needs special care and attention, mostly in the form of specialised products. It is advised that these products be 100 percent pure and organic, because Black hair is delicate and doesn’t need ingredients that hamper its growth and beauty.
This doctrine is passed on from experienced naturalistas to ‘newcomers,’ and the ripple effects are evident in the hair care industry. Not only are relaxers losing their patrons, but shampoos and conditioners containing certain harmful agents known to strip the hair of its nutrients are left on the cosmetic aisle stands for longer than their shelf lives permit. The interesting bit here is that they are not even as expensive as the natural hair care products which they are being substituted for. So the issue with making the switch is definitely not in the cost, but rather, people’s desire to keep their Black hair natural and healthy. Therefore, once the ingredients listed out on the container of a hair care product does not scream 100 organic, that product is less likely to be purchased by any enlightened naturalista.
However, the range of products being promoted by Kui Care is trying to dispel the myth that only [expensive] products entirely made up of organic components can help Black hair reach its maximum potential. According to the Founder and CEO, Majiri Otobo, it turns out that the problem with a lot of products which naturalistas avoid is that they contain excess amounts of these chemicals – sulfate being a well-known culprit – which indeed causes irreparable damage to the hair. Thus, a painful history of damaged hair is enough to turn any naturalista off non-organic hair products.
So, what Majiri does with her products is try to find the right balance when using some of these chemicals, which can in fact still be included in natural hair care products. Products which ultimately meet individuals who wish to go natural but can’t afford the natural hair products in the market, halfway.
“When I first went natural, I completely stayed away from sulfates. I used to not shampoo for nine months (which I still do from time to time), so I understand where the notion behind ‘stay away from certain chemicals’ comes in. But there’s a fine balance, because some of the reasoning behind our fears is more emotional than scientific. Even I have had to come around to understand that, yes, there are certain products that do have an [negative] effect, but too much of anything can become bad for you.”
Majiri first went natural four years ago when she still worked in a food factory in Yorkshire, England. She soon learnt that it was a bit of an issue having hair extensions in the factory, and since she could not have her relaxed hair out in Northern England because it would dry out, she started to look more at how to take care of natural hair. “I was shocked with how long our hair can be,” explains Majiri, “and how versatile our hair is, and how soft it actually feels. Because I’m a process engineer and I’m used to solving issues, throughout that entire period I was like ‘this is something that I could try and do back home.’”
When Majiri started out, she went “very natural,” using only olive oil and eggs to condition her hair. But she soon got tired of concocting homemade recipes every now and then, in addition to her busy schedule. Especially as she wasn’t one of the many lucky naturalistas who got it right from the get-go. Then it struck her that a lot of people also couldn’t be like those perfect naturalistas and vloggers with perfect hair care regimens. To this end, she decided to give people the tools to do what they can with the time that they have.
“I’ve always wanted to be an entrepreneur, and so it was a matter of finding the right products that I think make enough sense. Of course I try to make my products the best quality by using the best ingredients that I can, but the fact is, in the end most people cannot afford a certain price range and there are certain natural ingredients that outprice themselves from that mass market. So mine was to have a product that is of good quality, that can be made and manufactured in Nigeria, but is tailored to the Nigerian [economically]. Because people who can afford to buy the ones from America will buy them regardless. The populace is what I’m trying to target.”
The Kui Care brand is currently made up of four products – the shampoo, conditioner, hair cream, and the hair mist. For example, in shampoos, there’s a certain amount of sulfates normally used that strip the hair. What Kui does is reduce the amount, because the problem that natural hair has with sulfate is that it dries the hair. Kui is different because it focuses on the results – if your hair is softer, cleansed, and grows, as opposed to the myths. “I’m not saying that they’re all completely wrong. For example, sulfates are a very strong surfactant. But it’s just like salt is very strong. The amount of salt you put in water determines how salty the water is. Same with the amount of sulfate that you put in your mixture.”
Other ingredients found in the Kui brand are surfactants sodium lauryl sulfate, as well as emollients that help to keep the product together, give it thickness or fragrance, and the tea tree and cinnamon range with antibacterial and antifungal benefits to generally keep your scalp healthy. The idea behind Kui is to simply incorporate the organic ingredients with some of the chemicals, rather than completely leaving them out, or claiming to be completely natural. Because these chemicals have been used for the longest and tested the same.
Another key ingredient in Kui products is the humectant, glycerin, equally found in the hair mist alongside aloe vera. The Kui hair mist is not unlike the water spray bottle that you are most likely to find on any naturalista for combatting dryness. A primary issue that you are likely to encounter with Black hair. It’s all about keeping Black hair moisturised. Majiri makes reference to Chris Rock’s film “Good Hair” which breaks down the emotional and psychological realities of being a Black woman and not necessarily loving your hair or your looks. Like how we think that it’s normal to relax and have our hair straight. “I’m not anti-relaxers per se, but I think it’s good to give people the option of knowing how to take care of their natural hair.”
And Black people around the world, predominantly in developed countries seem to have embraced the choice for good. The declining sales of relaxers in places like the United States and the United Kingdom for example illuminated the birth of a growing market for people like Majiri who are staking their claim in the Black hair care industry. The difference is, Majiri is tailoring her Kui Care brand to suit an African market. A market which is in dire need of development according to her, as Nigeria has a unique problem of mass importation and limited manufacturing. Also, the African market is where the Kui brand can also thrive with minimal competition.
“I think that all businesses solve a problem, and I am grateful that I have quite a blessed upbringing that I can afford to take that risk. For me it was a matter of, “I have no dependents, I’ve got my degree, I have worked and lived an independent life and I have learnt a lot as an engineer that worked in four different countries. I gained an international experience that I could bring my home to my country. Because in the end, I think it is people like me that can make that difference.”
But establishing the Kui Care brand wasn’t all smooth sailing. When Majiri returned to Nigeria in 2014 to develop her idea, she initially wasn’t able to manufacture locally. But then, the exorbitant cost of importation led her to start searching for suppliers and information, causing the brand to launch at a later time than was initially planned. Although the company started last year, as Kui Care actually got registered in 2015, products only started to enter the market in the last week in June.
“I’m amazed at how difficult it is to start a business in Nigeria. If I wasn’t ‘me’ I don’t know how I would be able to sustain myself. Things take much longer, they cost a lot more, and they are a lot more difficult than the initial idea. When I look at my products I just think of the millions of decisions that I made to get here. I honestly thought that two years ago I would be doing what I’m doing now, which is launching. It’s been challenging, but it’s been rewarding. You really need to believe in what you’re trying to do, especially when things take time because it’s very easy to give up. I’ve had many ideas before this, and I did give up,” Majiri finishes with a laugh.
In response to whether or not she agrees that sporting natural hair is a trend, Majiri believes it a personal choice. She is, however, certain she herself will never use a relaxer again. Especially seeing how amazed she was at the softness of her hair and the newfound length that she has been able to achieve despite her “ups and downs.” According to her, taking care of natural hair is basic as long as you don’t let it tangle or get dry, and follow other strict natural hair care rules. Including spending time with your hair and getting to know it.
“It’s now my business to have long hair, and I’m not playing anymore (laughs). So now, I have set my routine. I do protein-condition every month, I trim my hair every two to three months, and I make sure that my ends are either in a style, or I keep them hidden so they don’t break. But really, my hair has grown a lot. What I can’t wait for is when my hair looks like all these girls on YouTube. To be honest, it takes a routine.”
Yes, taking care of natural hair is more complicated, but as every naturalista knows, it soon becomes a habit and, even better, a lifestyle.
“So I don’t think it’s a trend. A lot of people will try it and go back [to relaxed hair]. But I do tell people that going natural is a two year commitment. Two years give it a chance to show itself. What makes it faddy is the lack of information. There’s a lot we don’t know about having natural hair. Having long hair is just like a plant. If you put a lot of effort into your hair like you put on your skin, you will see the difference.”
Evidently, most of the effort lies in the kinds of products that are applied to the hair as part of hair care. Still, there are two things naturalistas know that stand out from the rest when it comes to the best bits about having your natural hair – self acceptance and confidence. Combined with other factors, they form stereotypes around the attitudes of girls who have their natural hair and are comfortable with it. Some of the stories are true, others are downright comedic.
Majiri opines that for Black people, our hair complements our other ‘big’ features, both physically and mentally. Also, even if going natural is part of something way bigger than a trend, ‘fros are a huge fashion statement once again. Kui (full word is “Baikui” which is Ijaw for “morning star”), with its motto “bring out the star in you,” is establishing its commitment to assist natural ‘fro-sporters and daring ‘fro lovers to tap into their inner celebrity. Starting with Africa. Majiri chose the name “Kui” because of its origin and meaning, as well as her desire to promote a Nigerian and African brand.
“My aim is Africa, honestly. I’m starting with hair products, but maybe I will go into other types of products in the future for women, men, and babies. I want to be like a household brand like Procter & Gamble and Unilever. That’s my vision – homegrown. Made by us, for us. I think once we realise that, as Africans, we are massive market and we are actually really blessed, our soil is blessed, we have all the whole raw materials, it’s just a case of utilisation.”
